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ElsewhereAnywhere Travel Magazine

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Jennifer Hayward

Distant Travels from Vietnam

April 23, 2021 by Jennifer Hayward Leave a Comment

By Liam Walker


As I step outside onto the shimmering asphalt, my feet feel as if they are about to melt. I have been dared to see how long I can stand the smoldering blacktop on my bare feet. Long story short, I only lasted about 2 seconds. After putting my flip-flops back onto my raw feet, I feel immediately relieved. Next comes the hard part.

The art of crossing the street in Phan Thiết, Vietnam is a skill that takes years to master. The sound alone of the motorists zooming past and people speaking to relatives across the road is more than enough to give you a migraine for days. The only piece of advice I received from my girlfriend was, “Whatever you do, don’t stop moving. They will go around you.” At the time, I didn’t understand that what she had just said would be a golden rule. 

Do you remember when you were a kid and you found tadpoles in the pond? If you’re from the city and have no idea what I am talking about, let me fill you in. When you stick your finger in the water, all of the tadpoles will disperse in every single direction away from you or act like you aren’t even there and swim around you. When you are crossing the street, you are your finger and the motorists are the tadpoles. 

DO NOT STOP MOVING.

FEAR CANNOT EXIST OR YOU WILL GET HIT!

 Downtown Phan Thiết with motorcycles

After my experience with the tadpoles moving 65mph, I had to stop to reapply sunscreen. Even with this melanin I still get sunburnt! We all rave about how nice hot weather is, that is until we are actually in direct fire of the sniper we call the Sun. 

As I stuff my sunscreen back into my bookbag, a street vendor offers me phó. Phó is a traditional Vietnamese noodle soup and is served in North America usually as a dinner, but in Vietnam, it is an all-day food. I learned this the hard way when my girlfriend’s family ordered phó for us all at 8 am for breakfast. Now don’t get me wrong, I love phó, but not at 8 am in 97° weather.

Looking around the busy downtown of Phan Thiết you will see so many different people, food choices, and even some wacky pets on leashes. The food selection is my favorite (what a surprise, right?), but let me explain why. There is one older woman who walks around every day downtown selling this delicious coconut ice cream on a stick. Mango and dragon fruit are to die for. The mangoes almost have the texture of butter and there are no fibers that get stuck in your teeth, and the dragon fruit is grown only 15 minutes down the road. This is a freshness you could never get back home in the states, and to be honest it sucks that I have to travel this far for my tongue to be this happy. 

Bowl of Pho-Vietnamese noodle soup

My favorite part of the Vietnamese food culture downtown would be the small street restaurants. You would never know they were there if you didn’t have a local from the city to let you in on all the best eats because they don’t look anything like our restaurants. The vendors have around three chairs and a small Blackstone they use to cook on, and usually only specialize in one specific dish. And let me tell you, they don’t need to cook anything else because wow, is it amazing.

 Downtown Phan Thiết with motorcycles

After reading about my time in Vietnam, I’d like to let you in on a little secret. I’ve never set foot out of the United States. All of these accounts were a merging of stories and descriptions provided by my girlfriend Zoë along with my imagination. Because of the pandemic, most of us cannot travel right now (and you shouldn’t be!), but the purpose of this essay was to show my readers that traveling does not need to involve movement in space. Travel is whatever you want it to be.

Filed Under: Humor Tagged With: contact zones, humor, inner/outer journey, Vietnam

The Coast of Mombasa

April 23, 2021 by Jennifer Hayward Leave a Comment

By Craig Akiri


That afternoon we set out to walk as far along the shoreline as we could. To live in the moment, enjoy the sun, and forget our troubles. It was summer break after all, and the shores of Mombasa seemed to call my name. What I did not know was that nature would reveal itself to me that day. The clear sands once decorated with soft glass and driftwood were now being hit by roaring waves. I was stunned, staring into the ocean past the horizon. I felt a bit of its anger. The
ocean works tirelessly to shape the land, transport minerals, and help sailors to shore all without rest. “Come on! We got to make it past the cave before the tide,” my friend said.

We had been warned against crossing the cave while the tide was high. It was filled with stalagmites that were rough and sharp from previous tides. When the time had come to cross the cave, we locked our arms together and counted our steps. At this point, the waves were as big as a person and the sound of the water crashing against the walls of the cave made it hard to hear each other. About halfway across, I slipped, causing me to lose my grip on my friend’s arm. I
quickly grabbed the side of a rock while my heart raced. Another wave washed over me, submerging my head. I was in its way, a tick on its back that it could not wait to get off.

Another large wave hit, this time taking my shoe with it. I watched as my shoe drifted away later to be submerged, never to be seen again. I was next. “Cross before the next wave.” I heard my friends shout. They had made it to the other side, where the coastline was much further back, and the waves were yet to touch. I strained my eyes to look for a clear way to walk. I leaned back, preparing to jump: “1 … 2…”, I took off my other shoe to have better balance. Was I stalling? Over to my left, another wave was approaching; my heart sank as I clenched my toes against the rock.

***

Something in me changed at that moment. I was numb, the air felt thinner, but my heart stopped racing. I hopped from one rock to another, reaching the other side. My friends were there to welcome me. I was still numb, but I felt calm and at peace. The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks felt like it was coming from inside my head. The ocean had changed me, like how the waves smooth out rough rock and turn them into pebbles, turn dead logs into
driftwood that can harbor marine life. I was less naïve.

We sat at the end of the coast just out of reach of the water. I could still feel its waves swaying my body left and right, but it was gentler this time as if it were trying to lull me to sleep. The sun had set, though it was not too dark. It still amazes me that the ocean can act with such force. I thought about surfers and how they ride the waves effortlessly knowing that at any moment they could be swallowed whole. Is it courageous to go against something that is unpredictable and to adapt to it? It must be. If you are stubborn and rigid, the waves will lay you flat as they almost did me.

Filed Under: Redefining Travel Writing Tagged With: epiphanies, Inner journey, nature

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